From what I’ve seen, when it comes to scaling back your wardrobe, there’s always a common thread: choose well, buy less. It’s something I’ve tried (and emphasis on tried) to instil into my own wardrobe, however sometimes a bad week will get the better of me – as much as I’m aware of it, shopping still seems to be a crutch I reach for when I’m under pressure or feeling stressed out. But what does ‘choose well, buy less’ really mean?
You’ve probably noticed that I’ve been shopping on the high street more and more these last few years, which in part has been a result of me getting a better understanding of the brands that will fit me well and also suit my personal style. The other part? It’s been a recognition that my wardrobe doesn’t have to be entirely designer for it to be good quality.
Quality over Quantity
My first instinct when I started culling my wardrobe, and exploring capsule wardrobes, was that I should be ultra-selective, and only add the very best to my wardrobe. And I definitely took this literally – to me, that was what quality over quantity meant. My seasonal shopping wishlist was overflowing with pieces from contemporary designers like Isabel Marant, Acne Studios, Alexander Wang and 3.1 by Phillip Lim, and typically tended to be a slightly more fashion forward take on a wardrobe classic, yet a ‘classic’ in my eyes all the same.
Inspired heavily by Dead Fleurette (whose website is no longer live otherwise I’d link it – sorry!), I had a strict list of what I should have in my wardrobe. One perfect white silk shirt, one black cashmere sweater, one black skirt; the list went on. I didn’t have much in the way of criteria, aside from the loose guideline that the items I was buying needed to be for the most part, made from natural fibres. I naively assumed that because I was paying a higher price tag, that the new additions to my wardrobe were automatically better quality.
What I failed to consider? That there might be brands at more palatable price points offering high quality, well made product, which were a better option for me than the ‘designer’ brands I was constantly chasing.
So does it really pay to ‘invest’ in your wardrobe?
My first experience of spending on a ‘designer-priced’ item that didn’t live up to the price tag was about 7 years ago. I was obsessed with Alexander Wang, and his line, T by Alexander Wang seemed to me a great entry point to the brand. At the time, there was a lot of hype around the t-shirts and racerback singlets from the brand, and I promptly invested in two of each. If memory serves, these came in at the $130 mark for a simple pocket tee or singlet. It didn’t take long for them to start pilling across the bust, and for the singlets to stretch beyond recognition. For a wardrobe basic that I’d shelled out more than $100 for, I expected more.
And I’ve had other similar disappointments. Buttons which have fallen off within weeks of an expensive purchase, seams which have unravelled, and tops which have shrunk despite laundering it per the washing instructions.
But that’s not to say that it’s been all bad. A classic black blazer I bought from Helmut Lang seven years ago is still going strong. This was a rather serious investment for me at 23, but it went on to become one of the overarching heroes of my wardrobe for many years (and still is today), and the quality has held up – it is still in excellent condition.
One of my favourite designer purchases are the Charlotte Olympia kitty flats, an item I bought about six years ago now. Mine lasted five years of almost constant wear against all the elements – rain, a lot of walking, and even the odd alcohol spill (oops!). Even though I eventually had to part with them, they were ultimately completely worth the purchase for me. I got more than my fair share of wear out of them, and at the end of the five years, I was ready to buy a second pair.
While this isn’t always true, that higher price tag often comes with more luxurious or quality fabrications, and more interesting designs. Some of my favourite wardrobe staples have come from contemporary brands the likes of Joseph, Helmut Lang and Karen Walker, or from designers like Stella McCartney and Chloe, and each pieces shares the same winning formula. Well cut, strong design, and beautiful fabric.
Where should you be ‘investing’?
As with any considered wardrobe purchase, I think the most important thing to invest in is time. Time spent researching the different options, considering the price points available, and making a discerning decision on those factors.
I’ve added and subtracted items from my wardrobe countless times over the last ten years, and my biggest learning is that quality and price don’t always collide; it’s a varying scale, where you can find instances of excellent quality at a low price point, and instances of poor quality at higher price points.
01 | Suiting
I’m yet to find a blazer from the high street that holds up to the same standard as something from a contemporary or high end designer. My Helmut Lang blazer is case in point; it’s cut beautifully, fully lined, and has managed to withstand years of wear all the white retaining its structure and appearance. Blazers I’ve bought on the more affordable end of the spectrum tend to lack the same structure and fit, and are often prone to pilling due to the make-up of the fabric. A designer price tag can be a tough pill to swallow, so I’d recommend keeping an eye on places like eBay or The Real Real as you can find gently worn designer blazers at a fraction of the retail price.
02 | Leather jackets
I’m still on the hunt for the perfect leather jacket, but research and experience has taught me that this is one wardrobe staple that is worth investing in (though I’ve been told that Zara do a great leather jacket which sits on the more affordable end of the scale). I’m not saying that you necessarily need to invest in a Balenciaga or Acne leather jacket, but usually something good will set you back about $600. I’ve seen gorgeous options from All Saints, Madewell and Whistles, and I also love this moto style from Ena Pelly.
03 | Coats
I probably have my mum to thank for my expensive taste in outerwear, but she taught me from a young age the importance of spending a little extra on a well made – and classic – coat. In my experience, I’ve found that the times when I have invested a little extra in my coat for the season, they’ve had less pilling, the fit has been superior, the lining has been silk, and they’ve kept me warmer than anything I could buy on the high street. The key is to opt for a classic style that’s timeless – something that you can reach for year after year, but won’t get bored of.
04 | Classic bags
Just like shoes, bags are a little bit of a weakness of mine, however I tend to be pretty reserved when it actually comes to splurging on a new designer piece; I want to make sure it’s something that I’m going to reach for time and time again, and it can’t date. Classic designer bags like the Chanel classic flap, Louis Vuitton speedy, and the Dior ‘lady dior’ are all pretty timeless choices which have aged gracefully. On the modern end of the spectrum is the Givenchy Antigona, Celine box bag, and Gucci Dionysus. Whether they’re worth it for you really comes down to how much you plan on wearing the bag (you’ve got to get that cost-per-wear down); does it fit your lifestyle, and do you see yourself still reaching for it five years from now.
Where can you save and shop the high street?
01 | Shoes
Of all the items in my wardrobe, it’s my shoes that undergo the most scrutiny. I walk a lot, and I can be pretty tough on anything that isn’t comfortable enough to withstand the journey or the wear and tear. While I might have a penchant for designer shoes, I can no longer justify buying them full price; too many expensive shoe purchases have gone unworn, or haven’t really seemed to go above and beyond any of my less expensive options. These days I tend to stick to a general rule of thumb; if it’s a style that’s offered on the high street – and done well – it isn’t worth investing in. Some of my favourite brands for footwear include Everlane, Marc Fisher, and Sam Edelman.
02 | T-Shirts
It’s a little unfortunate that one of my first forays into designer tees turned out to be a total flop, but it was enough to convince me more than ever that a simple tee is best left to the high street. My favourites come from Grana, though I’ve also heard great things about the Uniqlo U tees too. If you can, go for 100% cotton. These will not only wash well, but should stand the test of time.
03 | Denim
My denim collection has really only grown this year, but one thing I’ve always stuck to is the fact that the high street does a great pair of jeans. Over the years, my favourites have come from Topshop (I love their leigh and jamie styles), Dr Denim, and more recently I’ve fallen completely head over heels for the cheeky straight leg jean from Everlane. Don’t get me wrong, there are tonnes of great premium denim brands out there (I personally love J Brand, RE/Done and Frame), but I don’t think you need to go all out to get something that looks and feels great to wear.
04 | A leather tote bag
As much as I’d love a Louis Vuitton Neverfull, or a Saint Laurent leather tote, there’s no argument that there are so many options out there which are high quality and won’t break the bank. I’m in the middle of doing a tote bag comparison between three high quality but still attainable brands – Everlane, Cuyana, and Linjer – and their offerings only serve to strengthen that argument. Invest wisely in a brand you know, and I’d suggest going for something that’s lined and possibly has a bit of structure; it may not have a designer brand name attached to it (or the designer price tag), but the quality will be there all the same.
Where do you invest in your wardrobe? x
Pleased that your Helmut Lang jacket has lasted so long. I’ve got 2 of their mini skirts (at great cost!) in the past year, I hope they work out as well for me, the quality seems pretty impeccable. I have a weakness for mini skirts, so I’m always on the lookout for more and probably spend more on them than most other items in my wardrobe except for outerwear and some shoes.
Aren’t Celine bags as expensive as Saint Laurent though? Yes I agree, Everlane does great bags.
Author
They are certainly on the same spectrum! I think when it comes to spending on a designer bag, it’s best to go with a classic style – one that perhaps the brand is known for, or that is in a timeless style (of course if money is no object then I suppose you can buy whatever you like!). But when it comes to totes, I don’t think it’s necessary to spend upwards of $1000 – there are so many great alternatives under the $500 mark!