The Ultimate Winter Sweater Guide

Confession time. My knitwear drawer is a little out of control. Well, it’s more than just one drawer; it’s several. The irony isn’t lost on me, especially given I live in a climate that’s  milder than most. That said, I’ve found myself relying on style uniforms now more than ever, and not a day has gone by in the past three weeks where I haven’t reached for a snuggly sweater. So I thought today we could take a deep dive into knitwear, with a comprehensive winter sweater guide.

I’ll be focusing on five different kinds of knits in this winter sweater guide; wool, cashmere, alpaca, cotton and mohair. And with it, I’ll be sharing examples from my wardrobe, close ups of each fabrication, and brands to try.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you’re investing for the long haul, your knitwear will require some level of maintenance. This could be as simple as hand washing it and reshaping the sweater, or as involved as combing or shaving off any little nubby bits of wool.

WOOL

Wool is probably the first thing that comes to mind when you think of knitwear. The scratchy kind knitted by your grandmother, that you felt beholden to wear as a child. To me, it’s the obvious starting point when looking to build up your knitwear basics. 

There are so many great reasons to wear wool; it’s a natural temperature regulator, it draws perspiration away from the skin, and there’s an elasticity to the fibres so it can be reshaped.

You can either get a regular wool knit, like the Babaa and L’Envers sweaters I’m wearing above, or a merino wool knit, like the Sheep Inc. sweater I’m wearing. Merino wool tends to be softer and lighter than regular wool varieties (being sourced from the Merino sheep), and is a better option if you have sensitive skin.

Pilling of the fabric is common and wool knits will generally require a small amount of maintenance to keep them looking their best. I’d recommend buying a fabric shaver and wool comb for the upkeep.

Brands to try: Sheep Inc, Babaa, L’Envers, Acne Studios, Uniqlo, Joseph, &Daughter, Icebreaker, Marks & Spencer, & Other Stories

Wearing above

Babaa no17 knit in ‘ dark mist’ – this is O/S and made from 100% eco wool sourced from Spain. It has a rough texture to the wool, which softens with wear. You’ll also notice small little flecks of hay throughout the yarn. Very oversized – I still had room to “grow” in this even when I was 9 months pregnant!

L’Envers Johnny sweater in ’navy’ – also O/S and made from 100% pure Spanish merino wool. This is very thick and has a lot of structure to it, though from wear I can see it starting to have more elasticity and movement in the shape. This feels softer than the Babaa knit, and isn’t anywhere near as itchy, but may still not be suitable for those with sensitive skin.

Sheep Inc. Medium knit in ‘anthracite’ – worn in size 2 or ‘medium’ and made from 100% New Zealand merino wool. This is a unisex style and the sizing reflects that. I chose to size up for a relaxed fit, and find that the sleeves just cover the palms of my hands. Their sizing chart is very accurate and provides item measurements which I recommend referring to. This is a nice weight; thick but still soft and tucks nicely into denim. Very warm, and not at all itchy. It comes with a slightly premium price tag, but it’s worth it. Plus there’s a lifetime guarantee on general wear and tear. 

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CASHMERE

When I think cashmere, I think luxury. There’s an ultra soft feel to it, which often comes with a high price tag. Unlike your traditional wool – which is shorn off a sheep – the cashmere fibres are collected using a combing method. 

There are three grades of cashmere. Grade A is the highest quality, and the fibres are thin and long – the fibres being as low as 14 microns. Grade B has approximately 18-19 microns width per fibre, and Grade C is the lowest quality with approximately 30 microns width per fibre. 

In addition to the grades, how warm, thick and durable your cashmere knit is will depend on the ply. Essentially this is the number of threads combined to create the yarn.

Many cashmere knits will have a dry clean only tag, however I’ve personally had success laundering mine by hand washing in cold water. 

Like woollen knits, cashmere does have a tendency to pill in areas of friction so you’ll want to invest in a good cashmere comb.

Brands to try: Naadam,Mott & Bow, Uniqlo, Reformation, Everlane, Last Brand, J. Crew, Jac & Jack, Boden, COS, Joseph, H&M, Lilysilk, Cuyana

Wearing above

Mott & Bow cashmere raglan crew in ‘cream’ – worn in a size medium, this is a nice, loose fit. The weave isn’t super thick, but I find this is a great option for Sydney’s mild winter season without any additional layering. I own this in two colours, and have noticed that there is a difference in how soft they feel. My cream one is softer than the black. I will say that the cream is slightly sheer, so I wear this with nude coloured undergarments.

Naadam luxe unisex cashmere sweater in ‘plum’ – worn in a size medium for an oversized fit. This is a ultra fluffy, soft cashmere that has a bit of weight to it. It’s the thickest cashmere sweater I own. It’s incredibly warm, and washes well too (cold handwash setting – though I believe mine did shrink slightly).

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ALPACA

My most worn knit of the past 18 months has been this alpaca one from Everlane. The texture is slightly fuzzy, and it has a weightless feel to it – a little like wearing a cloud.

It may just be the weave on my sweater, but I find that there are small gaps in the knit so a strong breeze will get me, and I find it best layered over a long sleeved tee. That said, it’s warm, but I find its cashmere and wool counterparts to be my top pick if it’s especially cold.

The fleece is harvested from Alpacas, it’s hypoallergenic, and is softer than wool. If you have particularly sensitive skin, you may still find that alpaca wool irritates your skin a little.

Brands to try: Arket, Lauren Manoogian, Everlane, Stella McCartney, Apiece Apart, Frame Denim, Cuyana, Country Road

Worn above

Everlane alpaca knit sweater in ‘almond’ – worn in a size small. This has a relaxed fit through the body, and a puffed shape  through the sleeves. I have this in two colours (also charcoal), and find that the almond is semi-sheer due to the nature of the knit which has more of a loosely woven look to it. Holds up really well in the wash in a cold, hand wash cycle and laid flat to dry.

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COTTON

My number one recommendation for those who find traditional wools too irritating for their skin is a good cotton knit. Cotton is another one of those natural fibres that usually you’d associate with your summer wardrobe, but a good cotton knit can be cosy too.

The thing to bear in mind is that cotton knits (which are warm) are generally quite thick and heavy. They’re easy to launder (cold wash and reshape, laid flat to dry) which is another aspect I like about them.

If you live in a particularly cold climate where it snows, please note that unlike wool which has qualities to repel water, cotton will retain it.

Cotton knits won’t pill – at least not in my experience – however as the yarn is made up of lots of cotton fibres, it is prone to pulling. I’m sure not to wear jewellery or bags which might catch on the yarn.

Brands to try: Assembly Label, Sezane, Madewell, Arket, Free People, Everlane, Babaa, L’Envers, I Love Mr Mittens, Marks & Spencer, Vetta Capsule, Tradlands, People Tree

Wearing above

Assembly Label ribbed myla knit – worn in a size small, this knit is heavy. It’s a very thick weave, so you do feel that weight when putting it on. This is what gives it warmth, and I find it sufficient for our winters, with another top layered underneath.

Sezane Phillips sweater in ‘ecru’ – worn in size FR36, this has a slim fit. By contrast to the Assembly Label sweater, this is very lightweight, and more suited to the warmer months as a layering piece. I particularly like this kind of style as it’s a cardigan, so can be worn open over a tank or dress, or buttoned up like a top. This style is slightly cropped, and if you have a larger bust, I’d recommend sizing up to accommodate. 

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MOHAIR

When I was younger, I used to have a bright orange mohair sweater. It shed like you wouldn’t believe, and things haven’t changed. 

Mohair comes from the Angora goat, and has a slightly shiny quality to it. It’s quite fibrous in appearance, and has anti-wrinkle properties, plus will keep you insulated even when wet.

The yarn is often spun or bound with nylon for extra strength, which has the added bonus of creating a softer fibre, as it can be a little irritating on the skin. 

My biggest bug bear is that the small threads shed a lot, so that’s something to keep in mind when buying mohair items. The upside is that it will not pill, so maintenance is simple.

Brands to try: Sezane, Ganni, Witchery, Isabel Marant, Roseanna, Acne Studios

Wearing above

Sezane augustino sweater in ‘ecru’ – worn in size FR36. This is a loose fit. I love the design elements; the pointelle knit and the lacquered buttons. From a hand feel perspective, this isn’t incredibly soft. I’ve found the ‘chuck’ jumper which I also own feels lighter, fluffier, and nicer against the skin. This is blended with polyamide and merino wool; I don’t find it particularly itchy at all, however you may find it irritating if you have especially sensitive skin.

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WOOL/SYNTHETIC BLENDS

I thought I’d end this round up with blended wool fabrics; ones which have polyamide, nylon, acrylic or polyester woven into the knit. These are essentially all sides of the same coin; mad-made materials which are hard-wearing, easy to care for, and can add a soft quality to something like a traditional wool. Often, these will be more affordable than their 100% wool counterparts.

Some things you may notice with less expensive acrylic blended wools is that they pill more than other knits, and they have a synthetic feel to the yarn. I’d recommend investing in a fabric shaver for ongoing maintenance.

Brands to try: & Other Stories, Sezane, Uniqlo, H&M

Wearing above

JW Anderson X Uniqlo mens sweater – worn in men’s size M for a relaxed fit. Despite being an acrylic-wool blend, it doesn’t feel overly synthetic to the touch.